The Chefs Reviving the Classic Parisian Brasserie

When they began appearing in the late 19th century, Parisian brasseries — many of which were run by Alsatian immigrants — sought to serve people from various walks of life, an ethos that was built into their menus: Alongside elaborate, expensive dishes like côte de boeuf and quenelles de brochet (breaded pike) were simpler ones like frisée salad, steak frites and choucroute. But in recent decades, some of the brasserie’s spirit and collective energy waned; food became pricey and stale, and Parisians embraced other dining trends.

Now, though, two young restaurateurs, Juliette Cerdan and Kevin Caradeuc, believe the brasserie is ready for a revival. Their new venture, Brasserie Rosie, in the 11th Arrondissement, also pays tribute to the 19th-century lighting shops that used to fill the area. In the 200-seat dining room, the ceiling is hung with dozens of mismatched vintage chandeliers, while the velvet seat cushions are blush pink and baby blue. The food, by the chef Denis Gamard, who worked at L’Atelier, Jean-Luc Rabanel’s Michelin-starred restaurant in Arles, is equally friendly and homey: oeuf mayo (“It’s good, it’s easy, it’s generous,” says Cerdan), skate wing in butter sauce served with black rice pilaf and what is sure to become a signature — pigeon, foie gras and pork encased in puff pastry. “The idea is that there’s something for everyone,” says Caradeuc — and everyone is welcome.

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